Glasgow's Football Square Miles
(Trail 1 there, second on its way, more to come)
This piece has two purposes. The first is first to correct the mistakes on the web-site Football's Square Mile. They, the least egregious being that it is actually over four square miles, have been pointed out to them. But for whatever reason nothing has been done and, as Scotland's pivotal role in the creation of the global game of modern Association football is better understood and beginning rightly to be celebrated, for the sake of fans and august organisations such as Historic Environment Scotland or the National Trust of Scotland alike, accuracy is important. The second is to counter the superficiality of that same site by providing a deeper insight into the development in first inner and then outer Glasgow of both football per se and then the Association game.
And to do that we have created and added four trails to be followed either on-line or on the ground in person - two in the centre of the city, one with a side loop to Kinning Park, all best done on foot, a third, perhaps better by car but subdivided into four again walkable loops, all in the Crosshill and Queen's Park area. Here designation and a degree of preservation has recently been achieved for the second Hampden, Cathkin Park, and we await the outcome for Hampden Bowling Club, the first Hampden. And there is a fourth trail for Cathcart, where designation has also just been achieved for perhaps the World's single best depository of early footballing history that is Cathcart Cemetery. Only Woodside Cemetery in Paisley comes close. But first a little ................
Context
In the middle of the 19th Century Glasgow was a city on the move. In 1750 it had around 30,000 inhabitants. In 1800 that had become about 80,000, by 1850 over 300,000 and by 1870 it had a population of 500, 000, half a million, drawn in from all parts of Scotland, from Ireland and even from South of the Border. Nothing illustrates that growth better than the map below. It is from 1879 with both St. Enochs and from that same year Central Stations in place and markers, Kinning Park, Hutchesontown and even Fleshers' Haugh more than embraced or more than embraced by building and Pollokshields urbanising. Yet also shown and in red is the extent of the city a century earlier in 1773. It had been almost all north of the Clyde, with a little across the river to either side of the road south, so no Gorbals, and still open land to Glasgow Green.
(Bridge St (1840), Southside (1848), St. Enoch's (1876) and Central Stations (1879)
And a substantial amount of that change over the century, particularly on the southern bank and as shown in both the maps below had taken place in just the previous decade and a half, the same fifteen year that from 1865 that had seen first the coming to the city of organised, team football, but not yet the Association variant, and then the arrival and embedding of the new game. By 1865 building north of the river had reached out west and east. Fleshers' Haugh was now enclosed, whilst on the south bank, with the railways, the old Bridge St. Station finished in 1840, the former Southside Station from 1848 and actually at the bottom of Gorbals St., Tradeston, Laurieston and The Gorbals were already there as Hutchesontown was forming.
(Glasgow 1865 with Southside(1848) and Bridge Street Stations (1840))
Moreover, this urban growth was, as the map again below from 1869 shows, reinforced by the grapic below, that even over the next four years visibly to advance both East into the area of Kinning Park, South to Govanhill and a little beyond and even, almost as a new town, into Pollokshields.
(Glasgow 1869 with Southside (1848) and Bridge Street Stations (1840))
It meant that recently rural Strathbungo had by the mid-1860s already been encroached upon, forcing the group of young men, previously practising their athletic pursuits close to its centre, to look a little further south still for an alternative location and, it is said, for them and the round-ball game first to come into contact. Whether this is strictly true is perhaps open to doubt. A number of the were not young by even the footballing standards of today, had been in central Glasgow for the best part of a decade and surely seen and perhaps even played football on Glasgow Green. But this was new territory. Whilst organised, team games, albeit few in number, might have been taking place on by the Clyde it was not yet the case in the parish of Cathcart.
But that was to begin to change on 9th July 1867 when that small group of Strathbungo incomers, all younger than thirty or in their late teens, met in or above a tavern in what was then Eglinton Terrace, on the corner of Allison St. and Victoria Rd.. Quite what the area looked like at the time is impossible to know. It is just pre-photo and there are no illustrations. But much of it in all directions must have been a building site. And why these young men were drawn to the area is also difficult to fathom. They were, as it turns out but rarely stated, largely drapers and clerks, by location, as shown above, a concentrated group thrown together as much by circumstance and perhaps finances as anything else. Strathbungo itself had no railway link to Glasgow until 1877, but was a three-quarter of an hour's walk to the Clyde so commutable even on foot. However, out of that meeting was born Queen's Park Football Club, Scotland's doyen, named for the recreational space for Glaswegians, to which Victoria Road was the link from the city. But initially let us look at the birth of football in the city itself
Tour One - Central
(Glasgow football 1860-1870)
This first trail covers the decade from 1860 to 1870. It can be done separately to or with our second trail for the period from 1870 to 1890. Both start and finish at Glasgow Central Station.
It begins with the arrival in Glasgow of the game and in 1862 from Perthshire of John Connell, John Burns Connell, a player himself but importantly with a ball that he would make available for hire. It was to be the start for him of an organisational and on-field relationship based on Glasgow Green with first more generic, round-ball football and then from 1872 that based on Association rules; one that, for him with the Thistle, Drummond and Eastern clubs, would last a full decade and half, including at full-back a place in the representative team from the city against Sheffield in 1874 and being a reserve for the England-Scotland game the following season.
John Connell would step back from the game in 1876 and in 1877 marry his German-born wife from 89, Taylor St.. It now sits at the centre of the Strathclyde University complex but even then not quite a mile from Glasgow Green, where he may well a decade earlier competed against or played with Thomas Lipton and Arnot Leslie. The Liptons were from Ulster and the Leslie's from Dunfermline and Perth but both the boys had been born in the then newly-built Gorbals, Arnot in 1840 and Tommy in 1848, the latter on Crown St. leading to the river, the former on Norfolk Lane. But by 1871 Lipton, aged twenty-two, was living living still on Crown St. at number 13 at his parent's small grocers, before opening his own shop across the river, the first of a grocery empire that would make him a millionaire, the remnant of which is still Lipton's tea. However, in the meantime the Leslies had moved to 48, Bedford St., Arnot now a tinsmith, a plumber, who in about 1866 and by then in his mid-twenties would emigrate with his wife and one daughter to Argentina and in Buenos Aires set up a successful plumbing business. Norfolk Lane and Crown St. are five minutes on foot from each other. Bedford St. is five minutes more.
And then there is the third figure in all this - Alexander Watson Hutton. Watson Hutton grew up, went to school, college and emigrated from Edinburgh. He would meet both his wives there but he was born in Glasgow, in 1853 and at 29, Eglinton St. in The Gorbals, his parents from Fife, his father again Dunfermline. Eglinton St. is five minutes on foot from Bedford St. and ten from Crown. And the links are firstly Thomas Lipton was educated until 1863 two minutes away from home just across the river at St. Andrew's Parish School on the corner of Greendykes St. and Turnbull St. right on Glasgow Green. Football was literally on his doorstep. Secondly, Watson Hutton went as a teacher also to Buenos Aires, where he founded the English High School, and from where came first the school football team and the great Alumni one of the first decade of the 1900s. Moreover Watson Hutton, regarded as "Father of Argentine Football", in 1893 had been the first president of the second Argentine football league and his son, Arnold, would in 1906 become an Argentine internationalist. Thirdly Lomas F..C. carried the second Argentine League in the each of its first five years from 1893, with several of its players also going on to play for the country, including George and William Leslie, two of Arnot Senior's sons, both Buenos Aires-born, and it was the two Arnot Leslies, Senior and Junior, his first son born again Buenos Aires, who managed Lomas through its glory years, only ended when in 1899 Senior retired back not to Southside but Glasgow's Southern Suburbs. Indeed he would dieon Monreith Road in Newlands in 1904, in the house he had named "Argentina". But the real significance is that a year after his death the by-then Sir Thomas Lipton, who incidentally is three quarters of mile, from his childhood home in in Glasgow Southern Necropolis (see Tour 2), seemingly out of nowhere presented a cup to the Argentine Football Association, the Copa de Caridad (Charity) Lipton, to be played for by Argentina and Uruguay. Why? Fer Auld Land Syne, perhaps?
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Which leaves us in this tour with one final figure of note and two that are intruiguing. First, In 1876 Peter Andrews would be one of the first two Scots at much the same time to take the English shilling, at least to play football. The other, J.J. Lang, was twenty-five so, even though both went to Sheffield and to play to its rules, he had come into the game with the arrival to Glasgow of the Association variant. Andrews, originally from Ayrshire, was, on the other hand, already almost thirty-one and had been playing for the Eastern club, which had emerged Callander and before that Thistle, founded already in 1868 and with the involvement of John Connell. In fact Andrews and Connell were club-mates at Eastern, would be in 1875 in the Glasgow team that played and beat Sheffield with every chance that Andrews, a baker to trade, had been involved with Glasgow Green games from earlier than 1872. By 1871 he, his wife and family were living at 5, Dunchattan Road, a fifteen minute walk from the open space and, whilst the couple had been married in Tarbolton in June 1866 they are both recorded as by that time already staying in the city. It means there is every chance that he from the age of twenty, perhaps younger, was already learning at least the rudiments of the sport thata decade later would briefly become his profession.
And finally there are Mungo Ritchie and James Grant. By 1861 both were already in Glasgow, the former from Perthshire and the latter Inverness-shire. Ritchie was twenty-three and a draper boarding with an uncle and aunt just north of the Clyde at 69, London Road and within 200 yards of Glasgow Green. Grant was nineteen, a draper's assistant, staying just a little further away to the south of the river at 125, Hospital St. in The Gorbals before moving by the following decade to nearby Warwick St.. It seems inconceivable, given that half-a decade later Ritchie would be the first President of Queen's Park and Grant still active on-field as its first goalkeeper as well as third President that they did not get to know each other then through work and their love of the game begin there also. Moreover, Hospital St. is less five minutes was from Bedford St. and just 10 minutes walk from the Green right past the Liptons' shop, so again what is the likelihood that plumber, draper, draper's assistant and shop-keeper did not at least know each other in passing, be it on the street or football field, seems small.
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And with that this tour is completed and, on-line, there is Tour Two whilst, off-line, it is back to Central Station.
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Tour Two - Central
(Glasgow football 1870-1890)
Like the first our second trail starts and finishes at Glasgow Central Station and covers the two decades from 1870 when the Association game became embedded and, whilst on-field it spread thoughout the city and beyond, off-field the centre of impetus and therefore power moved from Glasgow Green to the Southern Suburbs.
And this came about from two events. The first was acceptance, thereby agreeing in their entirety to the rules of the Football Association in London, of an invitation to play in the first FA Cup. The invitation was in 1871, the first game in 1872. Either date will do as a starting-point because the second event would not happen until 13th March 1873, notably precisely ten days after the forming, aagin in Glasgow, of the then Scottish Football Union by the oval-ball game North of the Border.
The move was due to a newspaper advertisment with responses to be sent to the home at 3, Valeview Terrace in Battlefield of Archibald Rae, the then Secretary of Queen's Park F.C.. Shown below it interestingly suggests and asks for expressions of interest not initially for an association but a Cup, mirroring the English FA Cup, and proposing the meeting's date and also place.
The Scottish Cup and the SFA
So what did Football's Square Mile do about this? They had according to Mitchell outsourced their research, which identified the previous alcoholic Dewars and not the non-alcoholic one. The Scottish Football Association then did not double-check and a plaque has been put up outside the former railway offices, so in the wrong place. Where it should be, if anywhere, is in front of an Art-Deco building across the way that was erected on the site after demolition of the original building in the 1930s. So as a first stage of this trail, as you cross Glasgow Bridge to Carlton Place prepare yourself to look not FSM right but SGHG left by the bus-stop and you are there, where seven clubs in person and one more by letter kicked it all off, the Scottish Cup, the Scottish Footabll Association Challenge Cup it seems first and, to make it happen, the Scottish FA. The only sadness, apart from the FSM and SFA foolish but potentially easily correctible error, is that of that first octet only two, Queen's Park and Kilmarnock, remain.
The venue was to be at 11, Bridge St. in just on the south side by the old station. It was the Dewar's Hotel but this is where not simply confusion sets in but a major mistake has been made. The story is best told by the inestimable Andy Mitchell in his blog, Scottish Sporting History. If you have not yet accessed it then should not only do so but read it "cover to cover". But the gist of the story is that the Dewar's Hotel did not exist. The Dewar family had prior to 1863 open several taverns in the region of the station and all called The Railway Arms. One of them was at 16, Bridge St. to become known colloquially as "Dewars Hotel". But in 1863 Alexander Dewar, the family head, was formally declared bankrupt and "Dewars" was taken for railway offices.
However, Alex Dewar was soon able to clear his debts to the court's satisfaction and the family were able to find the premises across the road at No. 11, which they opened this time with no alcohol served. They were also formally The Railway Arms but soon earned the soubriquet, Dewars Temperance Hotel, shortened once more to simply Dewars.
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One of those present at that first SFA meeting and representing Queen's Park was Robert Gardner. By then, having developed into a fine goalkeeper, he was club and the first and until then the only national captain, having played in both the Scotland-England internationals, the second in London just a week earlier. It therefore seems unlikely that Gardner, having been the club's second Secretary, was there simply because he was living closest. But he was. The Gardners, his father, also Robert and likely a founder member of the club, his mother, sister and brother-in-law, were all staying 50 yards away at 25, Clyde Place, Tradeston.
Clyde Place is still there but not as it was. When the railway was extended from Bridge St. station to Central it was in the way and would be demolished. What remains is a road under the tracks eastward to Commercial St.. But first a little background. Within months, perhaps weeks Robert Gardner was to leave Queen's Park. One version is that it was because of what he would say at those first SFA meetings. Perhaps it was because of tactical disagreements. Gardner was played other than in goal. The club, which had used a new Scottish 2-2-6 formation for both internationals reverted the English 1-2-7 or 2-1-7. However, Gardener did not retire but joined rival club, Clydesdale, then at its Kinning Park cricket ground. And he did not go alone. There would also be the Wotherspoon brothers, with, when Gardner married in June that year, David Wotherspoon, a recent internationalist, as his witness, and Fred Anderson, a future internationalist. And with Anderson comes a third version of the ruction story. It has it that, as a sixteen year-old Fred, born in Glasgow but returning to it from England, he had joined Clydesdale F.C. on foundation but for the 1872-3 season switched to Queen's Park, did then not seem to get a game in the first team and returned to Clydesdale for 1873-4, with Gardner and the Wotherspoons not leading but following on. This version perhaps suggests Gardner, with a later reputation for bad-temper wanted Anderson in his team, was blocked and did not take it well.
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The Wotherspoons were from Hamilton. William, David, John and Thomas, all players, were born there, their father a baker, who had moved the family to Glasgow in 1864 but dying there, north of the river, the following year.
But by 1871 the remaining family, mother, David the second eldest son, an Iron Merchant's Clerk, and his siblings were staying at 24, Paterson St., less than half a mile from Clyde Place. And it is therefore probable that the slightly older Robert Gardner Jnr. and David Wotherspoon were neighbourhood pals.
It would explain why, given Robert Gardners Snr and Jnr connections with Queen's Park from its inception, David had joined the same club by 1870, already appointed Secretary in April that year, William played against Airdrie in June, he against Drummond in July, Airdrie again in September and he and John against Hamilton that same month. It would also explain that when there was a falling-out between Gardner and The Spiders in 1873, the Wotherspoons went too. And they went to the then Kinning Park club Clydesdale.
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Kinning Park - Parkgrove and Rangers
Kinning Park was in the mod-1800s an area of the city in transition. With the Paisley Canal and the railway into Bridge St. as a southern boundary and the river to the north the area between had been urbanised over the previous decade. When Clydesdale Cricket Club had been formed in 1848 its ground had been countryside but with railway access from 1840 via the old Pollokshields station. But by 1879 it was surrounded on three sides by buidings and on the fourth by a railway goods yard. It was long past a move and that the cricket club had done in 1873 by 1874 taking its football club, founded in 1872, with it and the field cum pitch being taken on from the 1876-77 season by an improving Rangers F.C.. At the end of that season it would be a Cup finalist.
The Rangers we know today is very much a Govan club. But it began its formal life in 1873 in Kelvingrove cum Anderston and its on-field one, with a group of players that were then still only in their mid-teens, on an increasingly crowded Glasgow Green. From there it entered the Scottish Cup in its second playing in 1874-5, with seven teams sharing the Green up from four the previous season. It was knocked out in the Second Round by Dumbarton. Then it moved, still on the north side of the river, to Burnbank, shared with 1st Lanarkshire Volunteer Rifles, for 1875-6 and again a Second Round exit to Third Lanark, before in south-of-the-river Kinning Park finding a ground of its own.
But Rangers were not the club to have taken over Kinning directly. From 1874 the ground was used byboth Craigton and Parkgrove F.Cs., Parkgrove being a street just to the north of the Park itself. And it was an interesting club above all for being "motley", if surprisingly successful.
From its formation in 1874 Andrew Watson, eighteen and just moved to Glasgow from England for university, was a member. In fact he would develop on-field into a half- and full-back and off-field Secretary and remain with the club until 1880. It was six seasons that would see first a move in 1876 a move to Trinidad Park in Govan by future Ibroxes, entry into the Scottish Cup from 1876-7, a First Round exit, followed by the Quarter Final in 1877-8 by when Robert Walker had been recruited from 1876 Cup-losing Third Lanark. And both Walker and Watson were Black, the first Black players known in British football with the former being an international trialist and the latter a future winner of Scotland caps and captain of his father's country. Moreover, Tommy Marten, the goalkeeper in 1876 and 1877, was half-Chinese, half-English and born in Java with Scottish family connections via his aunt and in Glasgow to learn the Shipping trade.
Furthermore, with Walker stepping back but Thomas Brittain joining in 1878 for a season, he already having been a reserve for England and a Welsh internationalist, it would be Third Round, albeit a heavy defeat to Rangers at the old ground and then in 1879-80, Fifth Round. However, with the departure of Watson to Queen's Park, perhaps also his financial support, and other players joining newly formed Pilgrims from 1880 it is still said to exist but would dropped out of the Cup and the picture.
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George "Jorge" Pattullo was tennis-loving Oil- cum Coal-Merchant, who in his one season playing for F.C. Barcelona, 1910-11, had with the Catalan club a goals-to-games ratio almost twice that of Lionel Messi. Pattullo''s was 1.78. Messi's .91.
Born in November 1888 in Albert Drive Pollokshields, by the East station, his father having died the previous April leaving money, he spent his comfortable first two decades there on Matilda Rd. and on Shields Rd. in Kinning Park. But at twenty-one something, probably business took him to Spain, where, having, it is said, even in Glasgow played little football previously he was discovered by Hans Gamper, Barcelona's founder.
A whirlwind year followed, when even then he didn't play all the games. His still preferred the tennis court. And then he was gone to return the following season for a single fixture, the semi-final of the Pyrenees Cup against city-rivals, Espanyol,, which his team won, 3-2, he scoring twice.
After that he remained in the coal business but in Newcastle, returning to Spain on two known occasions. The first was in 1928 firstly to kick-off a Barcelona versus Real Oviedo match but also to remain some time because of his health. During The Great War he had served in the Tyneside Scottish Brigade, been awarded the Military Medal but also gassed. It was in that time in 1930 he briefly managed the Majorcan team, Club Baleares. The second was in 1935 again to Palma de Mallorca to marry a London-based, Danish widow, Margaret Plenger, on which then moved to London. And it was there he died in Putney in 1953, but with a tomb, perhaps with his remains, erected for him and back in Glasgow in Cathcart Cemetery.
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As mentioned in Tour One John Connell (click for more on article left) can be seen as the man to have brought organised, round-ball but, even though he would become a noted player of it, not Association football to Glasgow. His place as a full-back reserve for the Scotland-England in 1875 is shown below and is more than enough to prove his prowess.
Born in Perthshire in 1846 he would arrive on the Clyde in 1862 with his ball for hire and steadily work at becoming integral to the games on Glasgow Green and then beyond. His final club, Eastern, which probably not coincidently would fold the season after he left, would play from Barrowfield (See below). And he lived, until later in life the family moved to Scotstoun, within a mile or so at first Taylor St. and then Stirling St..
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Tom Scott
Three men took football to Brazil, all at about the same time 1894 give or take but to different parts of the country. One was a Diasporan, the son of a merchant, who had married and made his life in Sao Paulo but was born in Largs. It was his son, Charles Miller, who learned the game at school in Southampton before taking it back to his Brazilian city home. The second was Tommy Donohoe fom Busby to Bangu by Rio de Janeiro, with his story an add-on to Tour Four. And finally there was the still least known, Thomas Scott, the one to take the game from his native Glasgow to the interior of Sao Paulo State, to Campinas and Jundiai.
Thomas Archibald McTaggart Scot was born in 1865 at 114, Glebe Road in Denniston, his father an engine fitter. But by 1871 the family had moved to 109, Castle St. just north of the cathedral and by 1881 to Springburn, where his father would by now work in the railway yard and fifteen -year-old Tom was an apprentice. And it was the railways that would then take the young man by 1890 at the age of twenty-four to Brazil, Nellie Cowie from Tradeston joining him that year and the two marrying in the British Consulate in Santos.
And from there work would take him north, by 1898 with his growing family to Campinas, to its Ponte Preta suburb, where, carrying the football contagion with him, he was instrumental in the foundation in 1900 of its club, now Brazil's oldest, its doyen, its equivalent of Queen's Park. And the process was repeated when the family was in 1902 moved to Jundiai with now not Tom's but also his sons' involvement in the emergence there in 1909 of Paulista Futebol Club. Moreover, even when Tom died young in 1913, aged just forty-eight, to be buried in the only English-language grave in the city' cemetery and Nellie took the family to Sao Paulo before dying herself the next year to be buried beside him, involvement did not stop. His son's would play on in several of the city's better teams for the best part of two decades. In fact their decendents, an Archibald amongst them, still stay there.
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Glasgow Necropolis
The Glasgow Necropolis, just east of Glasgow Cathedral, and island of calm in the city, was opened in 1833. And the Football Square Mile points out that William Dick, an early Secretary of the SFA is buried there, dying in harness at the age of just twenty-nine in 1880. But what it does not say is it is also tha last resting-place of James Richmond and Don Sillars, two prominent players, internationalists, both also dying young. Sillars, born in 1868, was a stalwart mainly of Battlefield in late 1880s and then Queen's Park in the 1890s, the winner of four caps. His death aged thirty-six was in 1905. Richmond had been born in 1858 and on Sauchiehall St., had five years with The Spiders in the 1880s and was the winner of three caps. His passing was aged thirty-nine in 1898.
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As already mentioned in Tour One Peter Andrews was an early footballing pioneer, Kilwinning-born, having moved to the city by 1866, the year he turned twenty-one. And staying close to Glasgow-Green, in 1871 he, his wife and child were at 5, Dunchattan St., it is highly likely that there he was a part, with John Connell, of the pre-Association scene before, like Connell, adapting to the new game. And so well did he do it that by February 1875 he, a forward and with Connell would be in the Glasgow team to face Sheffield and the following month at twenty-nine not only win his only cap, against England, a 2:2 away draw, but score the equalising goal.
And such must have been the impression he made that the following season he was once more in the Glasgow representative team against the Yorkshiremen, this time alongside J.J. Lang, and the pair of them were then "invited" to join Sheffield clubs. Now much is made of Lang at Wednesday being openly professional but that Andrews' arrival at Heeley was via work, Leeds and even there playing rugby. It is unlikely. He was a baker to trade and bread was still being eaten in Glasgow. Moreover he was by then thirty with a wife and now two children to support so it is almost unimaginable that he would have travelled South on an amateur whim. Indeed so well would he integrate into the Sheffield Rules football scene that the family would stay until at least 1881 and he, meantime in 1877 and in only his second season, would even turn out for its representative team and against Glasgow.
In fact, Andrews's involvement in football would be a life-time's, continuing off-field when the family returned to Scotland, to stay in Paisley. There he would have a third, or is that fourth, career now as foreman in a cotton mill and be a director of the local football association until his death at sixty in 1916.
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Foundation of Celtic
St. Mary's Church, Calton
Sacred Heart Church, Bridgeton
The foundation of Celtic Football Club took place in November 1887. The impetus came from the victory the previous February of Hibernian in the Scottish Cup Final, with a celebration of it having taken place in the church-hall of St. Mary's Church on Abercromby St. in Calton. Brother Walfrid, priest and teacher at St. Mary's School and later the first headmaster of the Sacred Heart School in Bridgeton, attended and came up with the idea of football, a club funding the care of Glasgow's poor, particularly its children.
The church-hall, which stood on just across Forbes St. from the church is no longer there, although it might be in the photo left. A later St. Mary's school building can also be seen on Forbes St.. Both sites are now housing. The Sacred Heart school still flourishes, now on Reid St. just to the back of the Sacred Heart Church on Old Dalmarnock St., half a mile from Glasgow Green and a mile from Celtic Park.
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Glasgow Green
Glasgow Green has belonged to the city fsince 1450, being gradually transformed in the first half of the 19th Century from mostly swamp-land to the drained, flat park of today. So when round-ball football came to the city in the 1860s it was the ideal location for first ad-hoc and then organised games, the first known just now being in 1866. But this was not yet the Association game and with the its arrival in 1872 the still very few clubs operating would by 1875 see a rapid tripling with space clearly under pressure and some, notably Rangers and Clyde, in order to monetise their activity, from it and Fleshers' Haugh moving on.
Fleshers' Haugh
Fleshers' Haugh was added to Glasgow Green in 1792. Until then it was private land. And despite, as implied, being low-lying and prone to flooding, it would from early on from the Green itself be taken for the new game, becoming the inner city's "Football Centre", albeit for a hundred and twenty years an informal one.
And it began early on. Eastern, quite probably with both Connell and Andrews in its team, there beat a pre-Celtic Celtic in January 1873. Rangers' first game is said to have been played there in May that same year. By The Great War it was the venue for eighteen ash pitches maintained by the Corporation itself.
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Barrowfield and Shawfield
When the Eastern club was dissolved in 1877 its players are said to have joined two others. One was Stonefield, the second was Clyde, the Secretary of which was John Graham, also a Queen's Park member, from an address at 24, Monteith Row at the northern limit of Glasgow Green. But by 1875 Eastern had already moved from there to Barrowfield,which stood on now cleared land a mile away between Colvend and Carstairs Streets and the river. And it was that ground that Stonefield, Clyde and a third team, Albatross, all initially and briefly shared.
However, by 1897 with Clyde long the sole tenant and by then in the League's First Division, the lease on the Barrowfield ground coming to an end and the Rutherglen Bridge completed in 1896 a new open piece of land was found just across it, less than a mile away, at Shawfield. And in 1898 the move was made with the club remaining there for almost a century until 1986, in a stadium, which would in time also host greyhound racing and speedway.
And it was the greyhound racing that would result in Clyde having to leave its by then long-term venue. Financial pressures in 1935 had led to the sale of the stadium to the Greyhound Racing Association and in 1983 the GRE decided it wanted to redevelop the land. The football club was then required to leave, eventually moving to Cumbernauld, then to Hamilton as a new home in the Glasgow area is sought; this as in the end the dog-racing did not in fact cease until 2020 and the stadium was finally demolished only in 2023, leaving only parts of the perimeter.
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Southern Necropolis
With the Old Gorbals burial ground full, in 1840 a piece of land on the then city's edge was purchased and named the Southern Necropolis. In it, according to the Football's Square Mile site, are two important graves. The first is that of Archibald Campbell, the Clydesdale representative at the initial meeting in 1873 of the Scottish Football Association and there elected as its first President. The second is that of Thomas Lipton, with a mention of his Thomas Lipton Trophy, which by FSM is described as a forerunner of the World Cup but was a competition for clubs so wasn't but with nomention of his inter-national Copa Lipton (See Tour 1), which was.
But there is also the grave of none other than David Wotherspoon, (See also Tour One above), Queen's Park (credited as the first to call them The Spiders), Clydesdale, Glasgow representative and international player, one of four footballing brothers, whose elder sister is said to have embroidered the first red Lion Rampant badges on the Scotland team shirts.
But note the difference in condition of the graves. The first is of a man, who had a love for the game born of teenage years probably playing it but whose immense wealth means still that its condition is excellent. The second and third are of important figures in an immensely wealthy game but on the memory of whom by it nothing has been is spent. The irony of priority is not lost.
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Billy MacKinnon was for a decade one of the great players of the early, Scottish game. Between 1872 and 1876 he, at centre-forward, a Queen's Park player throughout but for a guest appearance for Rangers' in its first ever match, would win three conscecutive Scottish Cups and nine caps, including eight in a row against England.
But it might never have been. He was born in 1852 on Eglinton St. in The Gorbals so was first capped at twenty. He was not tall but athletic, the inventor of the overhead-kid, and clearly very talented; but not just with the football.
Billy Mackinnon had a fine, tenor singing voice. By 1882 he had become a soloist for the Glasgow Choral Union but by then had already had an audition for La Scala in Milan, had passed, been invited to join the company but had turned it down because he wanted to stay in his home-town. And that he did, the longest lived of those very earliest players, dying in Cambuslang in 1942 at the age of ninety.
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Today's Aston Villa is the legacy of George Ramsay. He was the man, who taught the local Villa founders how to play effectively, i.e. the Scottish way. He was a player for and captain of the club from 1876 to 1882, initially amateur and then at least shamateur, during which time he found its first ground, brought in his successor, Ayrshire's Archie Hunter, and from 1886 for the next forty years, the period still today of its greatest success, was the club's Secretary, i.e. its manager.
And he was born in 1855, half-Scots, half-English in The Gorbals at 14, Abbotsford Place before a childhood and teens spent in Crosshill just north of Queen's Park. See Tour Three.
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Hugh MacColl was an engineer, who in 1889 took on the technical lead at the Portillo, White & Co. foundry in Seville. He was then aged twenty-eight, had already worked in Hartlepool and Belfast but what drew him to Spain is unknown.
Yet what he did there on the sporting field is clear. He stayed six years and in the second, 1890, presumably with a passion for and experience of football gained in his youth, he was captain of the winning, local British Club team, Seville F.C., at home, against Scots-founded Recreativo from the nearby and also Andalusian city of Huelva. It is the first-ever, officially-recognised game in the country.
But for MacColl, although much of his later life would be spent very successfully in the ship-building and -repair business in Sunderland, his start in life and, as fate would have it, his death would be in Glasgow. He is another pioneer of the game to have been born in The Gorbals, in his case in 1861 at 30, South Apsley St.. And, returning to his home city in 1915 for hospital treatment, an operation, he would die as a result to be buried in Cathcart Cemetery.
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Ginger-haired, one-eyed James Joseph "Reddie" Lang would twice lose a Scottish Cup-Final; the first in 1874, alongside Robert Gardner, David Wotherspoon and Fred Anderson with Clydesdale, then again in 1878 with Third Lanark and Archie Hunter. Meantime, he would pick up city representative honours against Sheffield in 1876 with Peter Andrews and that same year the first of two caps, both against Wales, the second two years later. And still in that interim not only would the initial Welsh encounter probably make him the first Catholic to represent Scotland but he would also become not the first but the first, Scottish professional.
The World's first effectively professional footballer was probably local-boy, Jack Hunter, who had joined Sheffield Heeley in 1870, being paid to play from somewhere in the first part of that decade. And, with a pattern set, in 1876 the city's Wednesday club then persuaded Lang, with the offer of a sinecure job from one of its directors, to travel South. As such he, with Peter Andrews, became the first Scottish professionals, although they were required to play Sheffield and not Association Rules with it unclear when, after 1878, the replacement of the former by the latter was completed. But whilst Lang, on hanging up his boots, would return for good to Scotland, dying in the north-west of the Glasgow in 1929, as he had first learned the game, as he was in Yorkshire and even after, his homes had been 6, Mathieson St. and 86, Thistle St. in The Gorbals and at 51, Commercial St. in Hutchesontown.
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James Grant
The claim to footballing fame of James C. Grant, James Cruikshank Grant, of whom there has already been mention in Tour One and there will be more in Tour Three, is as, for five years, Queen's Park F.C.'s first goalkeeper and also third President. He is said to have been from Carrbridge via Granton-on-Spey, in Glasgow originally a Draper's Assistant, living for at least a decade in The Gorbals, at 125, Hospital st. and then 21, Warwick St.. One who then, a Commercial Agent in Drapery, moved out into the Southern Suburbs, to Strathbungo, first, then to Shawlands and finally to the Mearns Road by Cathcart. It was there he would die in 1928 aged eighty-six. But, according to the Robinson history of Queen's Park through his working life he maintained an office in town, latterly at 11, Maxwell St., fifty yards from the river, two hundred and fifty from the Green.
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Birthplace of Thirds
Third Lanark, one of the great clubs of the first century of football until its collapse in 1967, came out of the military, the 3rd Lanarkshire Rifle Volunteers. Its date of foundation was December 12th 1872, two weeks after and inspired by the first international. It was in 1873 an original member of the SFA and a participant in the first Scottish Cup, reaching the last eight. Then in 1876 it was the defeated finalist in that same Cup, and again in 1878, taking it for the first time in 1889.
Two of the first ever Scotland eleven would also become members of The Thirds, Joseph Taylor and Billy Mackinnon (See above, and Tour Four). The club would also supply the Queen's Park goalkeeper to replace Robert Gardner, whilst the first wholly Thirds player to represent the country would be John Hunter in 1874, he being Archie Hunter's elder brother. From almost its inception the club would play the original Cathkin Park in Crosshill, its then Renfrewshire drill-ground (see Tour Three). The present Cathkn Park would be its second and last stadium. And the foundation of all this took place in Glasgow at the regimental orderly room then on Howard St., a short distance from the river and the Green. The actual building has long been replaced but stood on the corner of Howard and Dunlop Streets, adjacent to St. Andrew's Catholic Cathedral.
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And with that this tour is completed and, on-line, there is Tour Three whilst, off-line, it is back to Central Station.
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Tour Three
Queen's Park and Crosshill
There is no doubt that Crosshill with the Queen's Park and Mount Florida to its south in 1872 became and from then until the present day has remained the administrative hub of Scottish football and from 1878 has been the de facto home of our national team. The foundation of Queen's Park took place on its northwestern edge. It was, as the Association contagion took hold, as there was southerly, urban creep and countryside became villas and villas tenements, populated in those early days by clubs and grounds galore, some pop-up, others more permanent. All three of the Hampden Parks have lain within its boundaries. And it was immediately to produce players and more, who were literally to play pivotal roles in football both in Scotland and beyond.
(Strathbungo, Crosshill and Queen's Park 1879)
And this Tour Three aims, from a choice of five easiest access-points from three directions and also three/four loops, depending on available time, to give a far deeper and accurate insight than just now available. Best accessed by train a start can be made from Pollokshields West station, Crossmyloof or Queen's Park. It takes in the park itself and could even include the eclectic mix of the beautiful game and the beauties of Pollok Park, Pollok House and the Burrell Collection with further access from Corkerhill, Dumbreck or Maxwell Park stations. But perhaps the best route, a day out, for the whole, footballing itinerary at least is westward from Crosshill station itself with a finish, having taken in en-route the Scottish Football Museum, at the station at Mount Florida.
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Our Tour Two included the birthplace in 1855 in The Gorbals and some of his pivotal involvement in Aston Villa F.C. of George Burrell Ramsay. But the Ramsay family, his father a prosperous, Glasgow-born iron-monger, his mother English-born but Campbeltown-raised, had by the time he was six moved into the city's Southern Suburbs and were living in Crosshill on Albert St., now Road, in a villa named "Dunedin". And there he would stay for at least the next decade and possibly until 1876, when he turned twenty-one and headed South.
But in the meantime, in his teenage years, he had involved himself in the locally burgeoning football scene, first for a season with Oxford F.C. then for a second with the Rovers club both at the time on Queen's Park itself so within a couple of hundred yards or so of his home. And it was from those two seasons in the Scottish game that would provide the expertise, which would so impress in Birmingham and lead to an almost unbroken fifty-year career as player and Secretary/manager in the English game.
And there is the question of the Albert Park football ground, the first ground of Southern F.C., the first club to emerge . There is a one, which is south of the Queen's Park in Langside, and is a possibility. But it is more likely from what we know that it somewhere on Albert Road itself, probably on what was then still open country at the what is now not just Crosshill but the Crosshill station end. It and several short-lived grounds in the area are further discussed below.
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Birthplace of Queen's Park (Eglinton Terrace)
& Mungo Ritchie, James Grant and Lewis Black
The date and place of the foundation of Queen's Park and therefore in time the arrival of Association football in Scotland is well-known. It was 9th July 1867 at 3, Eglinton Place, now identified as 404, Victoria Road in the now Glasgow suburb but then still officially the Renfrewshire village of Strathbungo. Yet the question rarely asked is why there, with the answer being a combination of shared business interest, the drapery trade, and an element of serendipitous proximity. The founding group had practised not football but athletic sports on a small piece of open ground by Lorne Terrace, the reason being probably that from it Eglinton was little more than a couple of minutes walk west. And when, owing to development, they found themselves unable to use the patch Queen's Park itself was the same distance south.
Then there was Mungo Ritchie, the club's first president. He had a draper's shop round the corner at 22, Eglinton Place, also at that time the lodgings of the Smith brothers, James and Robert, and William Klingner, the club's first Secretary, all from what is now Moray.
Furthermore, Lewis Black, a Commission Agent again in drapery, the club's first captain and second President, stayed within a hundred and fifty yards at Allanton Terrace. Indeed, it was from there in 1873 he would marry Agnes, the sister of Robert Weir, the terrace's builder-developer and also Jerry Weir, Scottish internationalist four times, one of the club's first great players.
And then there was also James C. Grant, on foundation a committee member and the club's third President, for two seasons, 1869-70 and 1870-71, with for almost the whole period his Secretary being David Wotherspoon, his Treasurer, James Smith, the team captain, Robert Gardner, and the decision taken by its conclusion for the club to enter the FA Cup, specifically the key to Association football in Scotland taking wing. Grant was at the time still living in The Gorbals (See Tour Two) but would soon move to again just yards from Eglinton Terrace at 3, Westmoreland St. Indeed, in 1883 it was from there he married.
And it was still within the Southern Suburbs, indeed Strathbungo, that all between 1901 and 1928, would pass way. Wotherspoon, Ritchie and Black's deaths would be within a stone's throw of Lorne Terrace, Black's the earliest. Robert Davidson's, another of the founders, would be overlooking Hampden Park itself and Grant's, he having lived in Crossmyloof for many years, the last in 1928 and in Clarkston.
Lorne Terrace
Lorne Terrace lies in Strathbungo at the very eastern end of Nithsdale Road, as it now meets Kenmure and Kildrostan Streets and Darnley St. and Road. It was in 1867 the site of an area used to practice their field-sports by men from Perthshire and further north still, who because of building-development had to move on to Queen's Park and there would become the main founders the football club of the same name, Scotland's doyen.
It was to be the start, as can be seen from the tables below, of at first the addition of the Oxford club also at Southside Park as Queen's Park was also known, then the Southern club playing at Moray Park, 3rd Lanark at the first Cathkin Park and at Myrtle Park Granville before something of a rapid upsurge of formations at both Queen's Park itself, nine in 1873-4, and other grounds in the area, notably Bellevue and Overnewton Parks (See below).
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Moray Park, Camphill and Moss Side Park
One of the first teams to emerge after the adoption in 1871 by Queen's Park of the Football Association in London's rules was Southern, founded already in 1871 out of the Southern Cricket Club. It is said to have played both to Association and Rugby rules and, whilst not amongst the eight founder members of the Scottish Football Association it was an entrant in the first Scottish Cup, albeit that it conceded a First Round walkover to near neighbours 3rd Lanark.
However, it did a little better the following season before defeat, away, in the last eight to Renton, the eventual losing finalists, and might have been expected to progress. However, still in the Cup once more it was First Round defeat in 1875-6, this time to Clydesdale , after which the switch permanently to rugby seems to have been made, as well as a change of ground to Moray Park. It was seemingly south of Strathbungo towards the Crossmyloof end of Moray Place, as the was Camphill club, perhaps the previous tenants.
And Crossmyloof would also be the site of the Mossside Park ground of Westbourne. It was by the brick-works and clay-pit just to the west of the village with, before the railway station in 1888 Moss-Side road running from it to the Kilmarnock Road.
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Clydesdale
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Pollok House, Norwood and Maxwell Parks
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Queen's Park + Recreation
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Battlefield
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Valeview Terrace
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Hampden Bowling Club
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Bankhall Park
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Old Cathkin
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Myrtle Park
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Cathkin Park
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Hampden Terrace
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Bellevue Park
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Hanpden Park
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Lesser Hampden
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Tour Four
Cathcart and Beyond
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Cathcart Cemetery
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Snufffmill to Kilmaining Park
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Busby
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